GETTING READY FOR YOUR NEW KITTEN
(An excerpt from my nutro.com)
Remember how comforting it was when, as a child, you visited relatives and found
things waiting just for you: a cozy bed, toys to play with, and a pantry full of
yummy foods and treats? Well, you want to welcome your new cat or kitten just as
warmly. That's why you should try to bring your new kitten home when you have at
least a day or two to stay at home. This will give you and the kitten time to get
accustomed to one another. If you can avoid it, don't bring your new kitten home
during Christmas or some other holiday, or while you have visitors. There's too
much going on, and probably not enough time to devote to making your new family
member feel welcome and secure.
MEETING OTHER HOUSEHOLD MEMBERS
Once you and your kitten arrive at home, expect an adjustment period of several days
or - if you have another cat, a dog or children - a couple of weeks. Your new kitten
should be isolated from others for at least 72 hours. All animals have their own
viruses and keeping the new animal isolated with a gradual introduction may help
prevent illness. The moment you arrive, show your kitten to the litter box. Litter
boxes are comforting to cats, and of course, your kitten will need to know where to
find it next time there is a need. Make sure the litter box is in neutral territory,
away from feeding dishes and sleeping quarters of other pets. Allow the new kitten a
little space while she introduces herself to other household members.
Almost certainly, your old cat will be instantly jealous and arch her back and hiss.
This behavior may last a few hours to a couple of days. Your dog may growl menacingly
or display a stricken look that says, "Hey, I thought you loved me. What's she doing
here?" A more common canine reaction will be a friendly, but clumsy, curiosity which
your new pet will probably not reciprocate. If your dog is at all aggressive or high
strung, keep him on a leash or separated from the newcomer for the first few nights.
As for your kids, well, they'll wonder why they can't roughhouse with the new kitten
right away. Explain that you expect to have your cat for many years and that there
will be plenty of time to play after she becomes accustomed to her new home.
FEEDING DISH AND WATER BOWL
Choose a feeding dish and water bowl that is easy to clean. Aluminum or ceramic
dishes are all good choices, try to avoid plastic, as many Persians have a mild form
of allergic acne in response to the plastic. If you already have a cat or dog, your
new pet can share the water bowl, but not the feeding dish. Whatever kind of bowl
you use, both you and your pet will be happier if it is designed to not tip over.
Some cats like to place a paw on the rim of the feeding dish while eating, so a
non-tip design is important.
We feed and recommend Royal Canin cat food - if you decide to change the food from
what they have been getting, please do so over a period of time (to prevent sickness).
Remember that cat food - like human food is a buyers beware situation - you get what
you pay for. Cheap cat food - means cheap ingredients. In terms of nutrition, your
cat's first 12 months are absolutely critical. Inadequate nutrition can stunt growth,
impair mental development, and adversely affect personality. Fortunately, it's easy
to provide top-notch nutrition to kittens and cats.
Keep these guidelines in mind:
Cats are carnivores. They require foods rich in animal proteins. So don't
feed your kitten grain-based foods. You can't obtain animal protein from grain, only
from the additives, and they may not provide the proper protein balance. Give her
food with animal protein, such as chicken meal, as the main ingredient.
Kittens need kitten food, not adult cat food. To sustain healthy growth,
kittens require a certain ratio of protein and fat, and a higher level of minerals
and vitamins, than adult cats require. . Also, size of the kibble is very important,
a kitten's small mouth needs smaller pieces..
Always have plenty of fresh water available regardless of the animal's
age. Refill the water dish with fresh water daily.
After a kitten is three months old, reduce feeding frequency to three
times a day. At six months, reduce to twice a day.
For normally healthy adult cats (most breeds require a year, a few as
long as 18 months), place their daily requirement of food in the dish. Allow your
cat to eat "free choice" throughout the day. This style of feeding is crucial for
maintaining urinary tract health. If you feed canned food, throw out the leftovers
from the previous meal.
Once you find a brand of food your cat likes, stick with it. Don't be
tempted by the many varieties of cat food you see in the supermarket. Typically,
these brands are less digestible, which means more stools, and more stool odor.
Avoid any brand with by-products. Chicken by-products may include heads,
feet and internal organs. All of which are high in protein content, but most of
which cannot be digested by your kitten or cat, no matter how hungry she is. Meat
by-products can be equally non-nutritious. In contrast, Nutro foods contain chicken
meal, which is chicken with the water and fat cooked away. This provides a more
concentrated source of highly digestible protein for a cat.
Look for foods that contain sunflower oil or poultry fat. These are good
sources of essential fatty acids, such as linoleic acid, which give your cat a sleek,
shiny coat.
Don't "improve" a kitten or cat food with table scraps or leftovers. This
alters the carefully balanced mix of ingredients in the food and can cause diarrhea,
allergic reactions, or excessive weight gain.
Don't use any off-the-shelf additives unless your vet tells you to. A
properly formulated kitten or cat food will provide all the vitamins, minerals and
fatty acids that any cat needs. Adding ingredients can actually be harmful. For
example, Vitamin D can be toxic if it is not balanced by Vitamin A.
CAT CARRIER
You'll also need a cat carrier. If you travel a lot and expect that your cat is
going to spend much time in your car or in an airplane, then you will need a sturdy
carrier made of high-impact plastic or painted steel. Find one that has rounded
edges (easier to clean), a strong metal grill that fastens securely, and a large
handle. If you expect that the only traveling your cat will do is to and from the
veterinarian for occasional check-ups, then an inexpensive cardboard carrier will
do just fine
A PLACE TO SLEEP
You might want to provide a bed for your cat, but be forewarned. Cats can have very
definite ideas of appropriate sleeping quarters, and even the most elegant cat bed
might not tempt your new cat. A better solution is to fashion a bed from a small
corrugated cardboard box. Cut off the top, cut down three sides to about six inches
high and cut down the fourth side to three inches high. Then put a comfortable pad
inside. Find a friendly corner for the bed. If your cat boycotts your choice of
location, watch where she likes to sleep and relocate the bed. However, don't be
surprised if your cat ends up on your bed at night. Despite an aloof image, cats
crave human warmth and companionship.
SCRATCHING POST
While a bed is optional, a scratching post or cat furniture is a necessity, unless
your cat has unlimited year-round access to the outdoors in which case you need a child not a cat.
The important thing about a scratching post is not how big or fancy it is, but how soon you get
your kitten accustomed to using it instead of your furniture. We'll talk more about this when we get
to Training and Playing.
LITTER BOX
A litter box is another necessity. Even if you have an open-door policy, chances are
you'll need a litter box. Cats don't like to go outside in the rain or snow. And
there may be times when you won't allow your cat out at night, such as when owls or
coyotes have been reported in the neighborhood. When it comes to litter boxes, bigger
is better. A large box with high sides will reduce the amount of litter that gets
kicked onto the floor. A covered litter box with a top that opens for cleaning is
even better. Kittens younger than eight weeks will probably be discouraged by high
sides, so an aluminum or plastic pan that's a couple of inches deep is a good choice.
As your kitten grows, put the pan inside the litter box. Remove the pan when she's
used to the large box.
You can choose from many varieties of litters for your new pet. Your local pet
specialty retailer can explain the differences to you. You may find that the texture
or odor of your first choice doesn't appeal to your cat. Don't be surprised if you
have to try several brands before you find one she likes. Don't use shredded
newspapers, the absorbency is poor compared with cat litter. Also, you don't want
your kitten to get the idea that any newspaper is a litter box. If you use
high-quality litter, you only need to change it once a week. Clean the litter box
with hot soapy water. Avoid disinfectants, as they can irritate cats. Remove dried
feces with a scoop every day. When you clean the box keep an eye out for differences
in appearance and smell and they may help you to identify illness early.
CHOOSING A VET
Even before you select your cat or kitten, select your veterinarian. Recommendations
from friends are your best guide. Schooling and licensing qualify small animal
doctors in terms of professional expertise, diagnosing and treating disease. (They
may not have received much training in nutrition-which is also true of doctors who
treat human patients. Often, breeders or pet store managers are more knowledgeable
in this area.) The real differentiating factors are office location, office hours,
fees, and most important, bedside manner. You want a vet who shows a personal
interest in your cat, and who will take a few minutes to explain things. An abrupt
or uncommunicative DVM, no matter how technically expert, probably won't be
satisfactory.We can recommend several very good vets, just ask.
Part of our contract is that you have the new kitten examined by your vet within 72
hours. This will help to establish a rapport with the kitten, vet, and yourself.
IMMUNIZATIONS
Your kitten has received the first set of shots at about 8 weeks, and may have
gotten the second series as well depending on its age.. Your kitten has had
vaccinations to protect from chlamydia, feline panleukopenia (distemper), viral
rhinotracheitis/calicivirus. Wait until your kitten is at least 20 weeks old before
vaccinating for rabies. Typically, state laws require only rabies immunizations, but
don't stop there. If your cat hasn't been immunized before she joins your family,
visit the vet on the way home from the breeders. Get all the shots available. Most
of these diseases listed are potentially fatal. Let your vet set up a schedule for
return visits and booster shots.
What about feline leukemia? This is a deadly disease, but opinions differ on the
reliability of available vaccines. Discuss this with your breeder and vet.
Many vets offer low-cost immunization clinics on weekends. An assistant immunizes
cats and dogs at a reduced rate. You save money, but your kitten isn't examined by
the vet and she should be, at least the first time. The vet will examine her for ear
mites, roundworms and other parasites and check her overall health.
WHAT YOU SHOULD WATCH FOR
As a general rule, cats will not drink if they do not eat. Please keep a close watch
for the first couple of days to ensure that the kitten is eating. If not, you can
try some human baby food (meat flavors without onion powder) to help entice them to
eat something. Do not ever feed canned tuna or fish (human food) as the smell is
very strong. Cats must be able to smell their food or they will not eat it - the
stronger smells may spoil them to want only that food.
In between visits to the vet, you should examine your cat regularly. If you find a
serious problem, take her to the vet as soon as possible. Watch for:
DIARRHEA This is most often caused by an improper diet (including milk and
other dairy products, which should never be given to a cat or kitten). Bacteria,
viruses and parasites are other causes. In any event, impose a 24-hour feeding
moratorium on your cat, and then resume feeding her only high-quality cat or kitten
food such as Max or Natural Choice. If the diarrhea resumes, it's time to visit the
vet.
EAR AND EYE INFECTIONS These are manifested typically be a runny discharge.
When ears are infected they may smell bad and your cat will probably scratch them
often. Visit the vet immediately.
YELLOW OR BROWN TEETH This is caused by tartar deposits, which can lead
to irritated or even bleeding gums, drooling, bad breath, and a sharp decline in
eating. A diet of dry cat food is an effective way to promote dental health in your
cat because dry food acts as a natural tooth cleaner.
EXTERNAL PARASITES Fleas and ticks, the hated foes of cats and cat lovers
alike, are the most common parasites. Symptoms are continual scratching and loss of
hair. Frequent combings, outdoors, will reduce the problem. Don't use any flea and
tick powders or poisons without your vet's approval.
VOMITING A cat's reputation for curiosity is well deserved, and usually
vomiting is just cat's way of getting rid of something that she shouldn't have
swallowed in the first place. So don't worry about occasional incidents. But if your
cat is vomiting several times a day, the cause may be hairballs, parasites or other
serious problems. See your vet.
HAIRBALLS (also called furballs) Each time a cat grooms herself, she
ingests hairs and skin flakes. This can result in vomiting, especially in long-haired
cats. Usually no harm is done, although sometimes hairballs take so much space in
your cat's stomach that there's no room left for food. You can help to reduce
hairballs by brushing your cat's coat frequently. You can also help by feeding your
cat Nutro cat foods. They're made from high-quality ingredients and feature high
levels of linoleic acid and zinc, nutrients essential for healthy skin and coat.
Fewer flakes and less shedding equal fewer hairballs.
OTHER SYMPTOMS These include difficulty eating, loss of appetite, sudden
weight loss or gain, bad breath, drooling, fur loss, dull coat, changes in skin
condition, red or watery eyes, runny nose, labored breathing, blood in urine or
stool, difficulty in urinating, sluggish, or unusual behavior and an elevated
temperature. Call your vet and promptly take your cat in for an examination.
HEALTH CARE YOU CAN PROVIDE
There are many health care procedures you can do yourself, especially after some
instruction from a vet. Your cat may not always show her gratitude, but rest assured
that in her heart she still loves you.
PILLS Forget trying to sneak a pill into your cat along with her food, it
rarely work. Instead, with your cat on your lap, lift up her head, then open her
mouth by pressing at the corners. Insert the pill as far back on the tongue as
possible. Then close the mouth and hold it shut while gently massaging the throat a
few times until she swallows. You can also try putting the pill in human baby food
and giving it to the cat as a treat.
LIQUIDS Insert a plastic syringe at the corner of cat's mouth between her
cheek and rear molars, and squirt the medicine in a slow but steady manner.
TAKING YOUR CAT'S TEMPERATURE An electronic digital ear thermometer for
humans will work on your cat. These are expensive, but a real hassle-saver. Just
hold your cat's head with one hand and use the other to apply the thermometer to the
ear. Bingo, you have a temperature (it should be between 101 and 102.5 degrees. Your
breeder or vet can tell you what's normal for your particular cat). The alternative
is the traditional rectal thermometer, far cheaper but requiring at least two people
in most instances. With the cat on your lap, have someone hold her shoulders and
forelegs firmly. Then lift her tail and insert a thermometer (well lubricated with
petroleum jelly ) into the anus. Gently stroke her back and talk to her in low,
reassuring tones for two minutes while the thermometer takes a reading. With some
cats, you'll need a third person to hold down the rear legs.
EYE DROPS AND OINTMENT With one hand, hold your cat's head firmly, using
your forefinger and thumb to hold open the eyelids. Apply the drops or ointment with
the other hand. Be careful not to touch the eye itself with your fingers or the tube
or dropper.
EAR DROPS AND OINTMENT Again, hold your cat's head with one hand and
administer the drops or ointment with the other. If the medication is intended for
the ear canal, rub the ear gently to help push it into the canal.
BATHING, BRUSHING AND COMBING
Persians require daily grooming. A wide-metal comb is suggested and should be
combed through the coat daily. Don't forget behind the ears and under the armpits.
These areas collect mats faster than others, and mats can easily hide in these
locations. Frequency of baths depend on each individual cat's fur. Some require
baths bi-weekly, while others can go up to six weeks between before looking dirty.
To the untrained eye, a Persian most likely will appear clean even when dirty. Show
cats are degreased and bathed to look their very best. The coat of a well- groomed
Persian will not look separated or greasy. Many breeders degrease with either Dawn
dishwashing liquid in the bath water or Goop on a dry coat. But be careful, because
degreasing can also strip a coat if moisture is not replenished when weekly show
baths are given. To help add back oils from a stripped coat, try using a medicated
shampoo or even a cool hot oil treatment (that is, don't burn the skin of the kitty).
Cool the oil down some. A good way to make sure the oil is not too hot is to test
the warmth on your wrist first. Lipiderm is also recommended to help the skin. Each
color of coat will require a different bath shampoo. For example, Whites need a
shampoo with a brightening or bluing formula to whiten the coat. Blacks need to be
darkened and spared from too much light and drying. Tabbies require their bars to be
enriched and Reds need to redden the orange appearance. Bicolors and Dilutes require
a shampoo to bring out the color they have the most of, keeping in mind to also
brighten the white. Shampoos are sold with colors of coats in mind and will specify
exactly what they are intended to do.
Mats need to be removed before the bath or they will become worse. Never cut them
out with a sharp-pointed tool such as scissors...you could cut the kitty if he jumps.
Rip them apart into little knots and try working them out with a comb. Sometimes
powder can help too. Work large mats into smaller knots and work from the skin-side
out. Skin under the mat is normally very tender and sore. An infection can occur if
the mat is left too long. Degreasing the kitty is the best way to avoid mats. When
Persians become greasy under the chest, and especially and under the armpits, small
knots become large mats very quickly. Powder can help absorb some of the grease. I
would suggest using soft white grooming powder between baths.
If shaving is needed, contact a groomer or your vet. Many breeders enjoy what is
called a lion's cut during the breeding season when the kitty isn't being showed.
This cut is a shaved body with the tail, legs, and mane unshaved. It is quite
charming, but the cat isn't allowed to be showed with this cut. :-)
Never flea bath or flea dip a kitten!
How to clean up stained eyes:-)
Stains around the eyes of Whites and Bicolors are easily removed with daily
cleaning. Simply use a warm cloth each day to wipe the eyes. Then use some
cornstarch and boric acid powder mixed half and half to pat into the stains. The
powder will help bleach the white while absorbing the stains. Another solution that
I have grown to love is 1 tablespoon of boric acid powder in a cup of boiling water.
Mix well. Purchase a small Rubbermaid container and place makeup remover cotton pads
into the container.Pour the solution over the pads and drain off the excess. Seal
the container. Each day, wipe the eyes with one of these pads to help bleach the
white, remove tearing, and keep stains from setting. Remember to throw out the pads
each week and make a new batch to avoid infections caused by any possible bacterial
growth. For real tough stains, use the half and half cornstarch/boric acid powder
listed above; add water and form into a paste. Apply the paste cautiously on the
stains and let dry. Once dried, brush off and wipe clean. Be careful not to allow
any of the powder to ever enter the eyes. It could lead to an eye ulcer if even a
granule of the powder gets into the eyes. Boric acid powder is found in larger drug
stores (such as CVS or Walgreens) and is located near the contact lens cleaners.
Bath routine directions and procedure
Always comb out all knots before the bath. If you comb the kitty daily, he will
not knot and mat on you. Don't let the kitten be boss of the comb! Comb them daily,
even if they don't like it. It will become a favorite part of their day as they
mature into adults. Combing daily also helps prevent hairballs!
To degrease a cat, apply Goop to the dry coat...don't use Gojo...it is almost
impossible to rinse out and it leaves the coat somewhat heavy. Use the entire 15 oz
tub per adult cat, but don't Goop the face. Once the dry coat is fully Gooped, put
the stopper into the sink and work in a little water. Work the Goop through the coat
with the warm water. Then begin to rinse the Goop from the coat. When the sink is
about half filled with water, began to pour the Gooped water over the kitty.
Continue this for several cupfuls. Then let the water out of the sink and rinse,
rinse, rinse. If you don't rinse the Goop out completely, the fur will look heavy
and the skin will itch and burn.
For the bath:
I prefer to bathe cats in the sink. What I do is fill up one side of the sink with a
soapy water of the preferred shampoo (like you make up to wash the dishes). Get
EVERYTHING OUT and prepare the area for what you will need! Place the cat in the
sink of water and pour the water over the cat with a cup. Don't literally pour the
shampoo on the cat (Mix up a water/shampoo solution like you would for washing
dishes. Then pour the soapy water over the cat) It is almost impossible to rinse
undiluted shampoo out of a Persian's fur without practice. Do this until the cat has
had the water poured over enough to be cleaned. Fill the other sink with clean water
and transfer kitty to the rinse water. Pour the clean water over him with the cup
until you feel the shampoo is removed. Then repeat the rinse cycle back in the other
sink. Now for a third and final rinse...drain all water and pour fresh running water
over the kitty. Make certain you get the underside rinsed well too. :-)
Next, squeeze out excess water from the coat, pat dry, towel dry the face, wrap the
cat in a towel and move to the drying area. With the Metro dryer, there is no need
to comb until you have completely dried the cat...the dryer blows the hair out very
nicely.
Once a cat has been bathed, make sure the eyes do not have any soap in them. Flush
or rinse them with an approved eyewash such as Tomlyn Opticlear, found in most
breeder catalogs and retail pet stores such as Petsmart. If an eyedrop is needed, we
suggest Bausch & Lomb allergy drops. Do not use anything that says it gets the red
out.
Always clip nails short, but don't clip into the quick.
Blow-dry carefully, not allowing the cat to be burned. Move that dryer and don't
leave it sitting aimed at one spot of the skin...it gets hot! For Persians, my
favorite dryer is the Metro Force. You really don't need anything stronger than the
lowest 1 horsepower speed. It blows the water off the coat with nice cool air. This
also helps not dry the skin quite as bad as the hand- held dryers and it dries the
coat in half the time. You can locate the Metro dryer at Care-a-lot in Virginia
Beach, VA. Call 1-800-343-7680 and request a catalog. They do ship and the dryer
runs about $99.00. It's worth every single penny, even if you only have one cat to
bathe!
Praise the kitty for being sooo good, even if they weren't! I have found that after
about the fourth or fifth bath done with my routine, the cat stops fighting with the
"let me out of this bath" attitude.
A clean cat is a happy cat!
Remember, hairballs are the bane of cats, so frequent and thorough grooming protects
health.
TRIMMING OR REMOVING CLAWS
If your cat spends a lot of time outdoors, or is a faithful user of a scratching
post, there's no need to trim her claws. If not, then you'll need to do this every
three weeks. The best position is to kneel on the floor with your cat between your
elbow and body. Grasp a forepaw firmly to spread out the claws. Using only a claw
clipper sold in pet stores, clip off only the tip of the claw. If you clip too much,
you will cut into the quick, which can be quite dangerous and painful for your cat.
Clipping any cat's claws is not easy. You might want to watch your vet, or a
professional groomer do this once or twice before attempting it yourself. You'll
have the best results if you start clipping when the cat is very young. A cat can
almost always be trained not to scratch what's off limits. Provide a scratching post
or board, show your cat how to use it and clip her claws on a regular basis. Whenever
she starts scratching something she's not supposed to, clap your hands loudly,
sharply say "no!", and take her to the approved scratching area. Soon, just a clap
of the hands and "no!" will stop unwanted scratching. They do make gloves for claws
and they work well if you can get the cat to accept wearing them.
De-clawing is a very painful & inhumane surgical procedure that involves cutting
the tendons & nerves that control the extension & retraction of the claws. In other
words...it's just like amputating the lower part of each of your fingers, where the
first knuckle is. There are many Veterinarians that will not do this procedure
anymore...what does that tell you??? Cats need their claws for protection against
other animals and for climbing, even if they only reside indoors. Cats claws are a
natural growth just like hair & nails on a human. De-clawing may lead to a very
emotionally disturbed cat who may resort to biting.
For more information about the problems of de-clawing click here or here for specific articles about this topic.
SPAYING AND NEUTERING
Our sales contract requires you to have the cat spayed or neutered.. As a responsible
and compassionate cat owner, you want to ensure that no unwanted kittens are brought
into the world. Both you and your cat will be much happier after the procedure since
neutered males rarely mark their territory (i.e. your walls and furniture) with urine
and spayed females don't become stressed and irritable when they go into season. Your
vet will let you when the best time is - we suggest between 4-6 months of age.
Afterwards you can send us a copy of the paperwork and we will forward you the cat's
registration papers. If you have false ideas about making money breeding cats please
read our page on How to Buy a Kitten
which will explain the truth about this.
TRAINING AND PLAYING
Because of their independent nature, cats are often considered untrainable. That's
not true. They can be trained-just think of the lions and tigers in the circus.
However, your cat doesn't need such a high degree of training. All you want her to
do is come when called, use the litter box, and not scratch you or the furniture.
COMING WHEN CALLED
Cats respond best to positive reinforcement, not punishment. Food and a loving voice
are excellent positive reinforcements, so begin at mealtime. Call out your cat's name,
then add "Come." The cat should be hungry and will respond simply in hopes of a meal.
If you do this at every mealtime for a week, your cat will automatically come when
you call even when it isn't meal time. You can add a clicker noise to a treat when
ever the cat does something positive - soon the smart kitty will know when he hears
the sound he should behave in a certain fashion. It takes a great deal of time but
will work.
USING A SCRATCHING POST
To introduce your cat to the scratching post, place her forepaws on the post and
move them up and down in a clawing manner. If you catch her scratching elsewhere,
remember to clap your hands, sternly say "No!", and then put her back to the
scratching post. Once she starts scratching, reward her with a small food treat,
warm words, and some petting.
Never let your cat scratch you or other family members. Otherwise she will think
that is acceptable behavior and could cause serious damage. If your cat begins to
scratch, let your hand go limp and say "No!". Once she stops, praise her.
FUN AND GAMES
Kittens love to play four types of games. In play fighting, kittens wrestle with one
another. Even when they become strong enough to hurt each other, they almost never
do. If you want to join in, do so only while wearing a heavy leather glove or an
oven mitt. Kittens eventually outgrow these games and it's just as well. Grown cats
can do a great deal of damage to one another. Scooping fish is a game a kitten or
cat can play all by herself. She finds a small object on the floor, scoops it over
her shoulder, turns and pounces. In the prey pounce, your cat stalks an imaginary
prey, comes to a stop, and then pounces on it. "It" may be mother cat's tail, another
kitten, or your shoe. Closely related is the bird swat, in which the kitten
administers a swat with one paw before finishing off the prey. This game is best for
people participation; just dangle a rubber mouse or other object on the end of a
string. Your cat will swat at it and you'll be safe! What's more, this is a game
most cats will play all their lives.
Most important, your kitten wants YOU - please take the time to give them the
attention that they need.
All pictures on these pages are the property of the photographer and may not be copied.
©2000-2003 Padawan Persians
This page was last updated on 8/2/2003.